Dr. Rockin's Patterns #2.5: Umbrella Academy Vest- REDUX!

Umbrella Academy Vest REDUX!
Adapted from The Australian Wool Council's Traditional Knitting With Wool, pattern 25, to this snazzy cosplay-tastic version by J.K. Rockin'. No infringement of copyright is intended; I don't own any of the copyrights to the Umbrella Academy, but I DO own this pattern, so please don't use this commercially. (That means don't knit one and sell it, or Gerard will come to your house and suck your blood.)


This is the ~*REDUX*~, which means I've actually knitted this- no test knitting for me, I'm too punk rock- and have made notes accordingly. Stuff I've changed and think is important has just plain ol' changed; optional notes and personal preferences look like this.

MATERIALS AND MEASUREMENTS:
PRETTY MUCH ANY 8-PLY YOU'RE INTO (100g balls): m + c2 = MC; c1 + c3 = CC
2(2, 2, 3) balls in Main Colour (MC) [if you're doing a UA sweater, this is black...]
1 ball in Contrast Colour (CC) [..and this is white.]

I used two 100g balls of black and one ball of white. I did a little shuffling of yarns to keep 'em even, but that's all I needed. The 3 balls for the large (which is what I knitted) is waaaaaaay more than you'll need, but it's best to be safe; besides, an extra ball of black yarn never hurts.
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These quantities are based on average requirements and are approximate.
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Pair each 4.00 mm (whatever you call them in your country) and 3.25 mm (ditto) needles; 1 set of four 3.25 mm (...yep) DPNs; 1 stitch holder; knitter's needle to sew seams.
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SIZE 14 16 18 20
Length (approx) cm 65 65 66 66
ins 25½ 25½ 26 26

Garment measures cm 96 101 106 111
(approx) ins 37¾ 39¾ 41¾ 43¾

This is an easy-fitting garment.
It reeeaally is. I'm a lady of substance, and the large is a little bit baggy on me.
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TENSION: 22 sts and 28½ rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4.00 mm needles.
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SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS: "M1" = Make 1 - pick up loop which lies before next st, place on left-hand needle and knit (or purl) into back of loop.
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FIRST: CHECK YOUR TENSION. I CANNOT OVER-STATE THIS; DO A TENSION SQUARE. YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT. DO IT RIGHT NOW, IF YOU LIKE; PERHAPS YOU COULD MAKE A CUP OF TEA FIRST. JUST DO A TENSION SQUARE AT SOME POINT BEFORE YOU START BECAUSE OH MY GOD, CHECK YOUR TENSION OR SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES.
::cough::.

~*PATTERN*~
BACK:
Using 3.25 mm needles and MC, CO 110(114, 122, 126) sts. (I like cable cast-on, personally.)
1st Row: K2, *P2, K2, rep from * to end.
2nd Row: P2, *K2, P2, rep from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows 10 times. Dec(inc, dec, inc) once in centre of last row. [109(115, 121, 127) sts.]
I did all the rib sections in *P1, K1*, because I started without looking at the pattern, and by the time I noticed I was 10 rows into the rib. I personally like the look of single rib, but double rib might be clingier. It makes a little difference to the fit, but it's pretty much a personal choice.

FRONT:
Work as for Back to **.
On the intarsia: take the time to divide your yarn into separate balls for each panel. You'll need four balls of black and three of white. This bit is boring and time consuming! It is no fun! It is, however, TOTALLY IMPORTANT. I use little bags to keep my colours separated.
Note: when changing colours, join each section by twisting the colour to be used underneath and to the right of the colour you just used.

1st Row: K15(18, 21, 24) MC, [K25 CC, K2 MC] twice, K25 CC, K15(18, 21, 24) MC.
2nd Row: P16(19, 22, 25) MC, [P23 CC, P4 MC] twice, P23 CC, P16(19, 22, 25) MC.
3rd Row: K17(20, 23, 26) MC, [K21 CC, K6 MC] twice, K21 CC, K17(20, 23, 26) MC.
4th Row: P18(21, 24, 27) MC, [P19 CC, P8 MC] twice, P19 CC, P18(21, 24, 27) MC.
5th Row: K19(22, 25, 28) MC, [K17 CC, K10 MC] twice, K17 CC, K19(22, 25, 28) MC.
6th Row: P20(23, 26, 29) MC, [P15 CC, P12 MC] twice, P15 CC, P20(23, 26, 29) MC.

Keeping movement of patt correct (as places in last 6 rows) work 7 rows.

Proceed as follows:
1st Row: P26(29, 32, 35) MC, [P3 CC, P24 MC] twice, P3 CC, P26(29, 32, 35) MC.
2nd Row: K25(28, 31, 34) MC, [K5 CC, K22 MC] twice, K5 CC, K25(28, 31, 34) MC.
3rd Row: P24(27, 30, 33) MC, [P7 CC, K20 MC] twice, P7 CC, P24(27, 30, 33) MC.
4th Row: K23(26, 29, 32) MC, [K9 CC, K18 MC] twice, K9 CC, K23(26, 29, 32) MC.
5th Row: P22(25, 28, 31) MC, [P11 CC, P16 MC] twice, P11 CC, P22(25, 28, 31) MC.
6th Row: K21(24, 27, 30) MC, [K13 CC, K14 MC] twice, K13 CC, K21(24, 27, 30) MC.
Keeping movement of patt correct (as placed in last 6 rows) work 5 rows.
Last 24 rows form patt.
Work a further 76 rows patt.

Shape Armholes: Keeping patt correct, cast off 6(7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Divide for "V" neck:
1st Row: K2 tog, patt 46(48, 50, 52) turn.
Cont. on these 47(49, 51, 53) sts.
Dec at armhole edge in alt rows 6(7, 8, 9) times, AT SAME TIME dec at neck edge in alt rows until 29(30, 30, 31) sts rem, then in foll 4th rows until 20(21, 21, 22) sts rem.
Work 3 rows.
Shape Shoulder: Cast off 7 sts at beg of next row and following alt row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off.
Join yarn to rem sts and work other side to correspond, working K2 tob at centre front.

Neckband:
Using back-stitch, join shoulder seams. With right side facing, using set of 3.25 mm needles and MC, beg at left shoulder seam, knit up 65(65, 69, 69) sts evenly along left side of neck, 65(65, 69, 69) sts evently along right side of neck, then knit across sts from stitch-holder, dec 1(1, 3, 3) st/s across stitch-holder... 172(172, 180, 180) sts.
1st Row: *K2, P2, rep from * to end.
2nd Row: Rib to within one st of 2 centre sts (85[85, 89, 89]) K2 tog, sl1, K1, psso, rib to end.
Red 2nd round 7 times.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Armhole Ribbing: From right side, with 3.25 mm needles and MC, pick up and K1 st in every 4 out of 5 rows around armhole edge. Work in ribbing for 2.5 cm. Cast off loosely in rib.

THE END! Now strap on your levitator belt and domino mask and go fight a Zombie Robot!