Doctor J.K. Rockin' and the Happening Thing

Cthulhu Dice Bag

2010-03-05T01:57:00.000-08:00

Many moons later, I finally get back to this baby. By posting old stuff!

I knitted this two Christmases ago for my lovely brother, who has waaay too many dice for such a small bag. Still! He likes it, and takes it along to cons.

The bag is the smallest of Katydid's Geek Chic Dice Bags, onto which I added a cluster of i-cord tentacles. That's really the most time-consuming part; I knitted the bag in an hour or two, but did the tentacles over the next two days.

The key to tentacle success is density. You really want to pack those babies in there. Think you have enough? Add more! Think you've run out of room? Get out your crochet hook and do some single chains! It helps to like doing i-cord. Which I do.

His squiddy horribleness is made of some weird speckly green acrylic worsted weight I got second-hand, on my gorgeous Knit Picks nickel-plated 4mm DPNs. His eyes and his jaggedy eyebrows are embroidered on in dark green 5-ply wool, and he's held closed with a black i-cord drawstring.

something with bats on

2009-09-01T17:30:00.000-07:00

I very rarely write. It's a habit I need to get back into, but lately I've been more of a consumer than a creator of content, and that's unfortunate. I yearn to knit more, and do more with my hands- and play Pokemon, for some bizarre reason. It's an odd thing, actually studying IT. I use computers every day- literally every day, now I have an Eee PC- but never seem to run out of blogs to read, and Tweets to follow, and fic to find. The internet is an engrossing pastime, and lends itself to consumption. Actually updating a journal is a fine idea, but finding the time to talk about things is less fun than it sounds.

Anyway. My urge to create is such that I'm knitting while I'm on the internet- interknitting, if you will- which is a good time. The zine my friend and sidekick Mishka and I keep talking about creating is itching under my skin, aching to get out. Promising! For the moment, though, I want to knit things. My current to-knit list looks something like this:

-finish off the Elisa Nest Tote I just started
-knit something (probably something with bats on) for the fabulous Mary Borsellino, because she is my favourite and deserves bats
-a neckwarmer for Nat
-more squares for Wrap With Love
-something with Oogie Boogie on it

Of those, I've had 'something with bats on for Mary' on my little list since her birthday in March, back when 'something with bats' was a pair of handwarmers with the Torchwood logo on the back- a pattern I should write up and post, since they went really well. Unfortunately, I knitted them in Grignesco Bambi, which is gorgeous pure wool. Mary is allergic to wool. Strong Fail.

Alright! Enough crying about yarn. I'm going to finish a row, finish my breakfast, and start in on a LiveJournal post. Yes, I have four tabs open in Notepad++, stop looking at me like that.

Dr. Rockin's Patterns #2.5: Umbrella Academy Vest- REDUX!

2009-08-03T18:12:00.000-07:00

Umbrella Academy Vest REDUX!
Adapted from The Australian Wool Council's Traditional Knitting With Wool, pattern 25, to this snazzy cosplay-tastic version by J.K. Rockin'. No infringement of copyright is intended; I don't own any of the copyrights to the Umbrella Academy, but I DO own this pattern, so please don't use this commercially. (That means don't knit one and sell it, or Gerard will come to your house and suck your blood.)

This is the ~*REDUX*~, which means I've actually knitted this- no test knitting for me, I'm too punk rock- and have made notes accordingly. Stuff I've changed and think is important has just plain ol' changed; optional notes and personal preferences look like this.

MATERIALS AND MEASUREMENTS:
PRETTY MUCH ANY 8-PLY YOU'RE INTO (100g balls): m + c2 = MC; c1 + c3 = CC
2(2, 2, 3) balls in Main Colour (MC) [if you're doing a UA sweater, this is black...]
1 ball in Contrast Colour (CC) [..and this is white.]

I used two 100g balls of black and one ball of white. I did a little shuffling of yarns to keep 'em even, but that's all I needed. The 3 balls for the large (which is what I knitted) is waaaaaaay more than you'll need, but it's best to be safe; besides, an extra ball of black yarn never hurts.
---------------
These quantities are based on average requirements and are approximate.
---------------
Pair each 4.00 mm (whatever you call them in your country) and 3.25 mm (ditto) needles; 1 set of four 3.25 mm (...yep) DPNs; 1 stitch holder; knitter's needle to sew seams.
---------------
SIZE 14 16 18 20
Length (approx) cm 65 65 66 66
ins 25½ 25½ 26 26

Garment measures cm 96 101 106 111
(approx) ins 37¾ 39¾ 41¾ 43¾

This is an easy-fitting garment.
It reeeaally is. I'm a lady of substance, and the large is a little bit baggy on me.
---------------
TENSION: 22 sts and 28½ rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4.00 mm needles.
---------------
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS: "M1" = Make 1 - pick up loop which lies before next st, place on left-hand needle and knit (or purl) into back of loop.
---------------
FIRST: CHECK YOUR TENSION. I CANNOT OVER-STATE THIS; DO A TENSION SQUARE. YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT. DO IT RIGHT NOW, IF YOU LIKE; PERHAPS YOU COULD MAKE A CUP OF TEA FIRST. JUST DO A TENSION SQUARE AT SOME POINT BEFORE YOU START BECAUSE OH MY GOD, CHECK YOUR TENSION OR SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES.
::cough::.

~*PATTERN*~
BACK:
Using 3.25 mm needles and MC, CO 110(114, 122, 126) sts. (I like cable cast-on, personally.)
1st Row: K2, *P2, K2, rep from * to end.
2nd Row: P2, *K2, P2, rep from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows 10 times. Dec(inc, dec, inc) once in centre of last row. [109(115, 121, 127) sts.]
I did all the rib sections in *P1, K1*, because I started without looking at the pattern, and by the time I noticed I was 10 rows into the rib. I personally like the look of single rib, but double rib might be clingier. It makes a little difference to the fit, but it's pretty much a personal choice.

FRONT:
Work as for Back to **.
On the intarsia: take the time to divide your yarn into separate balls for each panel. You'll need four balls of black and three of white. This bit is boring and time consuming! It is no fun! It is, however, TOTALLY IMPORTANT. I use little bags to keep my colours separated.
Note: when changing colours, join each section by twisting the colour to be used underneath and to the right of the colour you just used.

1st Row: K15(18, 21, 24) MC, [K25 CC, K2 MC] twice, K25 CC, K15(18, 21, 24) MC.
2nd Row: P16(19, 22, 25) MC, [P23 CC, P4 MC] twice, P23 CC, P16(19, 22, 25) MC.
3rd Row: K17(20, 23, 26) MC, [K21 CC, K6 MC] twice, K21 CC, K17(20, 23, 26) MC.
4th Row: P18(21, 24, 27) MC, [P19 CC, P8 MC] twice, P19 CC, P18(21, 24, 27) MC.
5th Row: K19(22, 25, 28) MC, [K17 CC, K10 MC] twice, K17 CC, K19(22, 25, 28) MC.
6th Row: P20(23, 26, 29) MC, [P15 CC, P12 MC] twice, P15 CC, P20(23, 26, 29) MC.

Keeping movement of patt correct (as places in last 6 rows) work 7 rows.

Proceed as follows:
1st Row: P26(29, 32, 35) MC, [P3 CC, P24 MC] twice, P3 CC, P26(29, 32, 35) MC.
2nd Row: K25(28, 31, 34) MC, [K5 CC, K22 MC] twice, K5 CC, K25(28, 31, 34) MC.
3rd Row: P24(27, 30, 33) MC, [P7 CC, K20 MC] twice, P7 CC, P24(27, 30, 33) MC.
4th Row: K23(26, 29, 32) MC, [K9 CC, K18 MC] twice, K9 CC, K23(26, 29, 32) MC.
5th Row: P22(25, 28, 31) MC, [P11 CC, P16 MC] twice, P11 CC, P22(25, 28, 31) MC.
6th Row: K21(24, 27, 30) MC, [K13 CC, K14 MC] twice, K13 CC, K21(24, 27, 30) MC.
Keeping movement of patt correct (as placed in last 6 rows) work 5 rows.
Last 24 rows form patt.
Work a further 76 rows patt.

Shape Armholes: Keeping patt correct, cast off 6(7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Divide for "V" neck:
1st Row: K2 tog, patt 46(48, 50, 52) turn.
Cont. on these 47(49, 51, 53) sts.
Dec at armhole edge in alt rows 6(7, 8, 9) times, AT SAME TIME dec at neck edge in alt rows until 29(30, 30, 31) sts rem, then in foll 4th rows until 20(21, 21, 22) sts rem.
Work 3 rows.
Shape Shoulder: Cast off 7 sts at beg of next row and following alt row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off.
Join yarn to rem sts and work other side to correspond, working K2 tob at centre front.

Neckband:
Using back-stitch, join shoulder seams. With right side facing, using set of 3.25 mm needles and MC, beg at left shoulder seam, knit up 65(65, 69, 69) sts evenly along left side of neck, 65(65, 69, 69) sts evently along right side of neck, then knit across sts from stitch-holder, dec 1(1, 3, 3) st/s across stitch-holder... 172(172, 180, 180) sts.
1st Row: *K2, P2, rep from * to end.
2nd Row: Rib to within one st of 2 centre sts (85[85, 89, 89]) K2 tog, sl1, K1, psso, rib to end.
Red 2nd round 7 times.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Armhole Ribbing: From right side, with 3.25 mm needles and MC, pick up and K1 st in every 4 out of 5 rows around armhole edge. Work in ribbing for 2.5 cm. Cast off loosely in rib.

THE END! Now strap on your levitator belt and domino mask and go fight a Zombie Robot!

Dr. Rockin's Patterns #4: Shamelessly Unoriginal Ear Hat

2009-03-17T21:04:00.000-07:00

The Shamelessly Unoriginal Ear Hat
The basic concept of this hat (and, okay, most of the specs. Get off my back, dude, I just knit stuff okay) has been shamelessly pinched from Demon Knit Designs' Pencil Case Hat, but I've tweaked it to my preferred specifications. Like, y'know, hats that aren't MASSIVE AND UNWEILDY. This is my version! It is absurdly simple.

You'll Need:
1x pair 4mm straight needles (I like using my 10 inch needles for this one)
1 x 50g ball (or less- you're not going to need all of it) any 8ply yarn you fancy. I used Patons' Powder Puff in a pleasant pale blue(the Patons website lists the colour as '#25'), which feels nice. Make sure it's not too scratchy, because scratchy hats suck.
1x knitter's needle

Gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows = 4inch

A few notes on sizing: the pattern originally calls for the rectangle to be 13ins wide. What the fuck, y'all. That's MASSIVE. I tried it out, and it was freakin' huge, even on me. Clearly the original designer and I use very different tension. My test hat was for someone with a tiny little head(hi Leo), so the hat I ended up with is actually 36 sts wide. It'll give you around 19ins circumference. For a normal head, about 10, maybe 11ins across should be fine, so use the measurements below.

Also, if you're using a yarn like Powder Puff, do remember that different yarns knit up to different sizes, even if you're keeping your tension even. Unless you're willing to finish your hat, discover it's too big, unravel it and knit it again (like I did, argh), it wouldn't hurt to do the boring responsible thing and do a test square or two.

~*Pattern*~
CO 44 sts. Work 8 rows in single rib (*K1, P1*).
Switch to garter st (...seriously you should know this one.) and work 80 rows.
Work 8 rows in single rib.
Cast off.
Fold the rectangle in half, making sure you have the cast on and cast off rows on the bottom. Join sides with knitter's needle.
To make the ears, measure about 4 or 5 cms in from each corner, both along and down- basically, you're making little triangles. LIKE CAT'S EARS, NO? Using your knitter's needle and yarn, sew a gathering seam across the corner. Pull the seam in a little to make the ears stand out, and tie off. REMEMBER TO SEW YOUR SEAM WITH THE HAT RIGHT-SIDE OUT. I got that bit wrong because I am a silly, silly woman, and had to unpick and re-sew the ears- which, as you might imagine, was Not Fun in Powder Puff. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES.

And you're done! Photos to come.

Dr. Rockin's Patterns #3: Flap Hat of Awesomeness

2009-03-17T20:37:00.000-07:00

Jenn's Flap Hat of Awesomeness
Like many of my patterns, this one's a cinch. The only slightly tricky part is picking up stitches, and that's a snap once you know how. You can find any number of good tutorials around the place. I like this one.

You'll Need:
1 x pair of 4mm straight needles
1 x 100g ball (or less) of any 8 ply
1 x knitter's needle
1 x stitch holder (optional)

~*Pattern*~
CO 120 sts.
Work 24 rows of single rib (*K1, P2*, repeat * to * to end).
Next Row: *K2tog, K5*, repeat * to * to end.
Next Row: P2tog, P to last 2 sts, P2 tog.
Work 20 rows stockinette (K to end, P to end), then reduce like so-
Next Row: *K2tog, K9* repeat * to * to end
Next Row: P to end
Next Row: *K2tog, K8* repeat * to * to end
Next Row: P to end
Continue reducing until 3 sts remain. Towards the end you can get a little loose with it- I always forget what I do, so I just start reducing by a little more, a little more, a little more and so on and eventually it comes to something of a point. ANYWAY. Draw yarn through remaining sts and pull tight.

At this point, it's up to you whether you want to sew up the main seam first or leave it flat for adding on the flaps. I like to sew it up first, because it gives me a better idea of how the placement's going to work. Totally your choice, though.

To make the flaps: turn up the rib like a roll brim. Try it on (this is why I sew it up first) and find a comfortable spot for the rib to rest. On my hats (and my head), this is 12 sts from the cast on edge. Pick up 24 sts, 16 sts from seam. Remember, you're not knitting onto the cast on edge! You're going to have to do this twice, so if you want to pick up both sides before you start to knit them and hold one on a stitch holder while you knit the other, that might be an idea. What makes this bit tricky is picking up the right stitches so your rib looks continuous on the flaps. If you can't get it or can't be bothered to make it work, it won't ruin your hat- it just might not look quite as ~slick as a nice smooth rib would.

Knitting onto the rib, work 12 rows of single rib (K1, P1), and then reduce like so:
Next Row: K2tog, single rib across (keeping to the rib, whether you're starting on a K or P stitch), K2tog
Repeat until 4 sts remain. Work 8 rows single rib.
Next Row: K2tog, P2tog
Slip 2nd st over 1st, draw yarn through remaining loop and pull tight. Repeat for other flap.

You can add i-cords or tassels to your flaps, or leave them plain. If you made the flaps longer, you could finish one with a buttonhole and add a button to the other one; I haven't done that, because I think it looks silly. Whatever you choose to do, when the flaps are done, you have yourself a fancy hat.

Dr. Rockin's Patterns #2: Umbrella Academy Vest

2009-03-17T19:27:00.000-07:00

Umbrella Academy Vest
Adapted from The Australian Wool Council's Traditional Knitting With Wool, pattern 25, to this snazzy cosplay-tastic version by J.K. Rockin'. No infringement of copyright is intended; I don't own any of the copyrights to the Umbrella Academy, but I DO own this pattern, so please don't use this commercially. (That means don't knit one and sell it, or Gerard will come to your house and suck your blood.)

MATERIALS AND MEASUREMENTS:
PRETTY MUCH ANY 8-PLY YOU'RE INTO (50g balls): m + c2 = MC; c1 + c3 = CC
12(12, 14, 15) balls in Main Colour (MC) [if you're doing a UA sweater, this is black...]
2(2, 3, 3) balls in Contrast Colour (CC) [..and this is white.]

Until I knit this bitch myself, I won't be able to tell you exactly how much you'll need, because the pattern I'm adapting is a jumper and includes sufficient yarn to do two sleeves. I will tell you when I know.
---------------
These quantities are based on average requirements and are approximate.
---------------
Pair each 4.00 mm (whatever you call them in your country) and 3.25 mm (ditto) needles; 1 set of four 3.25 mm (...yep) DPNs; 1 stitch holder; knitter's needle to sew seams.
---------------
SIZE 14 16 18 20
Length (approx) cm 65 65 66 66
ins 25½ 25½ 26 26

Sleeve seam cm 48 48 48 48
(excluding cuff) ins 19 19 19 19

Garment measures cm 96 101 106 111
(approx) ins 37¾ 39¾ 41¾ 43¾

This is an easy-fitting garment.
---------------
TENSION: 22 sts and 28½ rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4.00 mm needles.
---------------
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS: "M1" = Make 1 - pick up loop which lies before next st, place on left-hand needle and knit (or purl) into back of loop.
---------------
FIRST: CHECK YOUR TENSION. I CANNOT OVER-STATE THIS; DO A TENSION SQUARE. YOU WILL NOT REGRET IT. DO IT RIGHT NOW, IF YOU LIKE; PERHAPS YOU COULD MAKE A CUP OF TEA FIRST. JUST DO A TENSION SQUARE AT SOME POINT BEFORE YOU START BECAUSE OH MY GOD, CHECK YOUR TENSION OR SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES.
::cough::.

~*PATTERN*~
BACK:
Using 3.25 mm needles and MC, CO 110(114, 122, 126) sts. (I like cable cast-on, personally.)
1st Row: K2, *P2, K2, rep from * to end.
2nd Row: P2, *K2, P2, rep from * to end.
Rep 1st and 2nd rows 10 times. Dec(inc, dec, inc) once in centre of last row. [109(115, 121, 127) sts.]
Change to 4.00 mm needles. **
Work 100 rows stocking st.
Shape Armholes: BO 6(7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec at each end of next and alt. rows until 83(85, 87, 89) sts rem.
Work 51(49, 49, 47) rows.
Shape Shoulders: BO 7 sts at beg of next 4 rows, then 6(7, 7, 8) sts at beg of foll. 2 rows.
Leave rem. 43(43, 45, 45) sts on stitch holder.

FRONT:
Work as for Back to **.
Note: when changing colours, join each section by twisting the colour to be used underneath and to the right of the colour you just used.

1st Row: K15(18, 21, 24) MC, [K25 CC, K2 MC] twice, K25 CC, K15(18, 21, 24) MC.
2nd Row: P16(19, 22, 25) MC, [P23 CC, P4 MC] twice, P23 CC, P16(19, 22, 25) MC.
3rd Row: K17(20, 23, 26) MC, [K21 CC, K6 MC] twice, K21 CC, K17(20, 23, 26) MC.
4th Row: P18(21, 24, 27) MC, [P19 CC, P8 MC] twice, P19 CC, P18(21, 24, 27) MC.
5th Row: K19(22, 25, 28) MC, [K17 CC, K10 MC] twice, K17 CC, K19(22, 25, 28) MC.
6th Row: P20(23, 26, 29) MC, [P15 CC, P12 MC] twice, P15 CC, P20(23, 26, 29) MC.

Keeping movement of patt correct (as places in last 6 rows) work 7 rows.

Proceed as follows:
1st Row: P26(29, 32, 35) MC, [P3 CC, P24 MC] twice, P3 CC, P26(29, 32, 35) MC.
2nd Row: K25(28, 31, 34) MC, [K5 CC, K22 MC] twice, K5 CC, K25(28, 31, 34) MC.
3rd Row: P24(27, 30, 33) MC, [P7 CC, K20 MC] twice, P7 CC, P24(27, 30, 33) MC.
4th Row: K23(26, 29, 32) MC, [K9 CC, K18 MC] twice, K9 CC, K23(26, 29, 32) MC.
5th Row: P22(25, 28, 31) MC, [P11 CC, P16 MC] twice, P11 CC, P22(25, 28, 31) MC.
6th Row: K21(24, 27, 30) MC, [K13 CC, K14 MC] twice, K13 CC, K21(24, 27, 30) MC.
Keeping movement of patt correct (as placed in last 6 rows) work 5 rows.
Last 24 rows form patt.
Work a further 76 rows patt.

Shape Armholes: Keeping patt correct, cast off 6(7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Divide for "V" neck:
1st Row: K2 tog, patt 46(48, 50, 52) turn.
Cont. on these 47(49, 51, 53) sts.
Doc at armhole edge in alt rows 6(7, 8, 9) times, AT SAME TIME dec at neck edge in alt rows until 29(30, 30, 31) sts rem, then in foll 4th rows until 20(21, 21, 22) sts rem.
Work 3 rows.
Shape Shoulder: Cast off 7 sts at beg of next row and foll alt row.
Work 1 row.
Cast off.
Join yarn to rem sts and work other side to correspond, working K2 tob at centre front.

Neckband:
Using back-stitch, join shoulder seams. With right side facing, using set of 3.25 mm needles and MC, beg at left shoulder seam, knit up 65(65, 69, 69) sts evenly along left side of neck, 65(65, 69, 69) sts evently along right side of neck, then knit across sts from stitch-holder, doc 1(1, 3, 3) st/s across stitch-holder... 172(172, 180, 180) sts.
1st Row: *K2, P2, rep from * to end.
2nd Row: Rib to within one st of 2 centre sts (85[85, 89, 89]) K2 tog, sl1, K1, psso, rib to end.
Red 2nd round 7 times.
Cast off loosely in rib.

Armhole Ribbing: From right side, with 3.25 mm needles and MC, pick up and K1 st in every 4 out of 5 rows around each armhole edge. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 2.5 cm, end wrong side. Cast off.

THE END! Now strap on your levitator belt and domino mask and go fight a Zombie Robot!

let me introduce my bad self

2008-12-15T16:58:00.000-08:00

Good afternoon, folks. I’m Doctor* J.K. Rockin', Dork Knitter and scene ninja. Amongst other things I knit, sing, write and share my Strong Opinions in a faintly smug yet hopefully endearing fashion.

In addition to my Strong Opinions about everything else, I have Very Strong Opinions about music! I like almost everything, and I like telling other people what I think almost (but not quite) as much as I like music. You may also notice knitting patterns scattered around the place. Mostly they're not terribly original or inventive, but they're mine. ::pats notebook affectionately::.

All over this blog (up the top, see?) I talk about being a scene ninja. What that means is: I am like the wind. Look around the Sydney scene; you will not see me, but I am there. In basic terms, what I mean is that I go to a fair number of shows, listen to a lot of albums, lurk around MySpace, and I know a few people by face, first name and phone number. I am not and will probably never be a Big Name in any scene, but look to the shadows, and you might find me.

I'm also the Captain of The Pep Squad, a crew- alright, there's two of us, whatever- of fierce and fabulous individuals. My best friend and co-conspirator Mishka, a.k.a. The Fishmouse, has no blog as yet. You can find us on Twitter at @pepsquad.

With any luck, allowing for traffic, storms, rains of blood and so on, there’ll be exciting new things up on a fairly regular basis. I talk entirely too much and I type pretty fast, so I tend towards long-windedness, but bearing in mind that I’m a student and bone idle, who knows? Hopefully you’ll find my opinions as interesting as I do.

Surfing safety,
Doctor** J.K. Rockin' (Loveologist, Awesometrist, Procrastinatrix)

*Not true.
**Still not true.

Dr. Rockin's Patterns #1: Basic Beanie

2008-12-14T05:26:00.000-08:00

So! Having introduced myself, here is my first pattern for all you good, good people out there.

Dr. Rockin's Basic Beanie
Seriously, this beanie is the easiest hat ever. It's on two needles, there's almost no shaping, and all you have to know how to do is knit & purl. It's in rib, so it's nice and stretchy.

This is the first beanie I ever made, and honestly, even novice knitters should find this simple. Notes in parentheses for genuine n00bs. By no means is this terribly original; that said, please don't use this pattern for commercial gain.

You'll Need:

1 x pair of 4mm straight needles
1 x 100g ball (or less) of any 8 ply (beginners are probably best off with smoothly twisted acrylics)
1 x knitter's needle

~*Pattern*~
CO 100 sts.
Work 10 rows in double rib (*K2, P2*, repeat * to * to end).
Switch to single rib (*K1, P2*, repeat * to * to end) and work until the work from the beginning of the single rib is around 8 1/2 ins long- approximately 60 rows, if your tension is anything like mine.
Next Row: K2tog to end.
Repeat row, reducing sts until 5 sts remain. Break off yarn, thread through remaining sts and pull tight. Sew the side edges together, taking care to sew the seam flat so as to avoid a bulky seam.

Aaaaaaand you're done! See? Told you it was easy.